Congrats on purchasing your Pure Water Distiller!
You’ve taken an important step to ensure the purity & quality of your drinking water! We are sure that you will have many years of use from your Pure Water Water Distiller.
Below are instructions for setting up your machine, maintaining your distiller, and troubleshooting if you run into any issues.
Mini Classic CT
What comes with your Mini Classic CT:
The Pure Water Mini Classic CT, (1) glass container and lid, (1) activated carbon filter, (1) owners manual, (1) warranty card, (1) power cord, and (2) spare O-rings.
Here is the set-up guide for the Mini Classic CT:
1.) Open the door and remove the boiling chamber by pulling the handle.
2.) Remove the lid by turning the black lid knob counter-clockwise, moving the lid side to side, and lifting it out.
3.) Fill the boiling chamber with cold tap wateruntil the water touches the bottom of the water level indicator. DO NOT OVERFILL.
4.) Replace the lid on the boiling chamber. Turn the black lid knob clockwise and tighten firmly to ensure a good seal.
5.) Push the boiling chamber into the left side of the distiller until it fits snug and clears the blue decal.
6.) Close the door.
7.) Remove the lid, and put the glass jar in place.
8.) Plug the power chord into the back of the distiller and then into the electrical source.
9.) Turn the power switch to the ON position.
10.) Press and release the “Start Cycle” Switch.
11.) Allow the unit to operate until it automatically shuts off (approximately 3.5 hours).
12.) Keep the first batch of distilled water for soaking the post filter, but do not drink.
13.) Submerge the carbon filter completely with distilled water in a separate small container for one minute. Flip and agitate the filter several times. Remove the filter and place it inside the filter housing.
14.) Slide the filter housing into the guide above the drinking water container.
15.) Replace the glass jar in the distiller.
1.) Ensure that the boiling chamber is cool.
2.) Open the door and remove the boiling chamber by pulling the handle.
3.) Loosen the black knob on the lid and slide the lid from side to side, and lift the lid out.
4.) Swirl and empty out any water left in the boiling chamber from the prior batch.
5.) Fill the boiling chamber with tap water until it touches the bottom of the water level indicator.
6.) Place the lid on the boiling chamber. Tighten the black lid firmly to ensure a good seal. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.
7.) Push the boiling chamber into the left side of the distiller until it fits snug and clears the blue decal. Close the door.
8.) Be sure the lid is removed from the glass jar. Put the glass jar in place.
9.) Turn the power switch to the ON position.
10.) Press and release the “Start Cycle” Switch.
11.) Allow the unit to operate until it automatically shuts off. This will take approximately 3.5 hours and produce approximately 3 L of distilled water.
CAUTION: Never open the door during operation, and never remove the boiling chamber while the unit is operating.
Every Batch:
Before each batch, swirl the residual water from the previous cycle, then rinse the boiling chamber.
Weekly:
Clean your hands, then rinse your filter with distilled water. Agitate the carbon to prevent clumping.
Monthly, or every 30 cycles:
Clean the boiling chamber using either Lumen cleaner & descaler or a 50/50 mixture of white, distilled vinegar and water to remove any build-up of solid residues.
Every 3 months:
Replace the carbon filter (stock #45518).
Clean the exterior with stainless-steel cleaner (stock #6606)
O-Rings inside the steam tube should be checked. If cracked, replace (stock #717). Otherwise, lubricate.
1.) Turn the power switch to the OFF position.
2.) If the unit has been operating, wait 30-60 minutes from the end of the distillation cycle before cleaning. The boiling tank could cause a burn if not allowed to cool.
3.) Carefully remove the boiling tank from the unit.
4.) Remove the boiling tank lid.
5.) Drain any residual water inside the boiling tank.
6.) Fill the boiling tank to the water level indicator with hot water and add 2T of Lumen Cleaner (stock #6603), or fill up the boiling tank to the water level indicator with a 50/50 solution of white distilled vinegar and hot water.
7.) Allow the solution to sit for up to 8 hours. Then drain and rinse thoroughly.
DO NOT put the boiling chamber back into the unit during cleaning.
DO NOT allow the unit to operate with the Lumen cleaner in the boiling chamber.
The carbon filters are designed to polish the taste of distilled water and remove any remaining VOCs. The filters should be replaced every 3-4 months.
To replace the carbon filter:
1.) Remove the glass jar from the unit.
2.) Remove the old filter by sliding the filter housing and filter towards you or removing it from the opening in the glass jar.
3.) Immerse the new carbon filter in a separate container filled with distilled water for one minute.
4.) Remove the soaked filter and place it into the filter housing.
5.) Slide the new filter and housing back into the guide.
The Pure Water Mini Classic CT Water Distiller is designed for years of dependable service. The following guide is presented to assist you in the event of any problems with your distiller.
UNIT DOES NOT PRODUCE WATER
No Power
– Check that the power chord is plugged in and is pushed in completely to the back of the distiller.
– Check that the power to your home is on.
– Check that the on/off switch is turned ON.
– Check that the “Start Cycle” switch is ON.
– Check that there is water in the boiling chamber.
– Check that the boiling chamber is completely pushed in.
Heating Element Burned Out
– Check that there is power to your home.
– Check that the power chord is plugged in and is pushed in completely to the back of your distiller.
– Check that the power switch is turned ON.
– Check that the boiling chamber is pushed in completely, and the fan rotates when the unit is on, but the air is cool or cold.
Replace the heating element kit (Part #716B).
THE DISTILLED WATER HAS AN OFF-TASTE
New Carbon Filter is Needed
– Change post filter by following directions under “Replacing the Filter” above.
THERE IS STEAM AROUND THE UNIT
Insufficient Ventilation of the Unit
– Check that the unit is not pushed up against the wall. Keep a minimum of 3 inches of clearance.
– Check if there are any items on the unit that may block airflow. Remove any such items.
Fan Motor
– Check if the fan is not turning, and you have checked that there is power to the unit and the timer switch is on, then it may be a failed fan motor. Replace the fan motor (Part #667B).
THERE IS WATER AROUND THE UNIT
Improper Positioning
– Check that the boiling tank lid is aligned with the boiling tank correctly.
– Check that the carbon filter is in the proper position and water is flowing through it.
– Check that the glass jar is correctly placed to catch the water.
– Check that the heating element and gasket are tight.
What comes with your Midi Classic Water Distiller:
The Pure Water Midi Classic Water Distiller, (1) Incoming water valve hook-up, (1) Activated carbon post filter, (1) Faucet with sight glass, (1) Rubber Washer, (1) Drain extension tube, (1) Drain valve, (1 foot) Silicone Tubing, (1) Distilled water outlet plug, (1) Owner’s manual, (1) Warrenty card, and (1) Power cord.
Things to consider when installing your Midi Classic:
• Select an area that will allow the distiller to remain level. Improper leveling
could affect the production rate.
• The distiller must be located in close proximity to a water supply and an
appropriate electrical supply source. The distiller should also be located in
a well-ventilated room.
• The Midi-Classic can be installed on a countertop, table, or on the floor. If
the Midi-Classic is installed on the floor, it must be at least eighteen inches above the floor. An optional stand may be purchased for this purpose.
This is for several reasons:
1. Easier position to observe, maintain, and repair.
2. Easier to catch the flow from the boiling tank when you drain the
residual water.
3. Easier to catch the water from the storage tank.
• Electrical requirements: Isolated 115 VAC, 15 amp circuit (220 VAC, 4.5
amp). Check the electrical rating on the label on the rear of the distiller.
• When connecting the tubing into the quick-connect fittings, it is criticalthat
the tubing be inserted fully! The tubing should be inserted into the fitting 1/2”
to 3/4”. Failure to do so could cause water damage. We recommend that,
prior to inserting the tubing, you mark the tubing 1/2” from the end being
inserted into the fitting. After inserting, pull back on the tubing
to verify it is attached securely. This should ensure the tubing is properly and fully installed. Also, make sure the tubing is cut squarely and is free of
rough edges. When disconnecting tubing, push in
on the grey collet while pulling on the
tubing until it releases.
Installation:
1. Open the carton.
2. Carefully lift the distiller out of the box so it remains in the upright position.
3. Remove and identify all parts kits as listed on page 4.
4. With a pair of pliers, remove the black plug in the fitting marked “Distilled Water
Outlet”. If you are not installing a demand pump, insert the grey plug, located
In the parts kit bag, the pump installation information is discussed later in this manual.
5. Remove the wire tie inside the boiling tank used to restrain the float during
transit.
Connecting the Incoming Water Line
To hook up the Incoming Water Line:
1.) Locate the items in the parts kit bag as identified on page 4 as “Incoming
Water Hook-Up”.
2.) Turn the household water supply OFF.
3,) Remove the blue plug in the fitting marked “Raw Water Inlet”.
4.) Install the 1/4” speedfi t elbow onto the fi tting. Pull to test.
5.) For installation on copper pipes:
a. Assemble the saddle tapping valve on the cold water pipe so the outlet is in a convenient direction.
b. Tighten the screws evenly so the brackets are parallel. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.
c. Connect the 25’ of 1/4” plastic tubing to the saddle tapping valve.
d. Cut the required length of tubing to run from the saddle tapping valve to the distiller, but make sure you coil a minimum of 8 feet of tubing behind the distiller to allow it to be moved away from the wall for cleaning or service.
e. Cut a one-foot piece of 1/4” tubing off the end of the tubing to allow the strainer to be installed.
Note: You may also use a piece of tubing that
was cut in step d.
f. Install the one-foot piece of tubing into the elbow on the Raw Water Inlet. Pull to test.
g. Install a 1/4” compression nut onto the tubing coming from the distiller.
h. Install the tubing onto the strainer. See figure
8. Make sure the tubing is inserted fully into the strainer and the flow is in the correct direction. Tighten the nut firmly.
I. Install a 1/4” compression nut onto the tubing coming from the saddle tapping valve and connect to the inlet stem of the strainer. Tighten firmly.
j. Turn the saddle tapping valve handle clockwise until you feel it is firmly seated. Note: You have now pierced the water supply line, and the valve is closed.
k. Turn the handle counterclockwise to open the valve. Turn on the household water supply and check the connections for leaks. Tighten where
required.
5b. For installation on brass, steel, or PVC pipes:
Note: Make sure the water supply is turned off and drain the line. Make
Make sure you’re using the cold water line.
a. Drill a 3/16” hole in the pipe. Use a hand drill to avoid a shock hazard.
b. Turn the saddle tapping valve handle to expose the lance beyond the
rubber gasket no more than 3/16”.
c. Assemble and place the body of the valve over the hole so the lance
fits into the hole. Make sure the outlet is in a convenient direction.
d. Tighten the screws evenly so the brackets are parallel. Tighten firmly,
But do not overtighten.
e. Turn the saddle tapping valve handle clockwise to close the valve.
f. Connect the 25’ of 1/4” plastic tubing to the saddle tapping valve.
g. Cut the required length of tubing to run from the saddle tapping valve to
the distiller, but make sure you coil a minimum of 8 feet of tubing behind
the distiller to allow it to be moved away from the wall for cleaning or
service.
h. Cut a one-foot piece of 1/4” tubing off the end of the tubing to allow the
strainer to be installed. Note: You may also use a piece of tubing that
was cut in step d in the previous section.
I. Install the one-foot piece of tubing into the elbow and pull to test.
j. Install a 1/4” compression nut onto the tubing coming from the distiller.
k. Install the tubing onto the strainer. Make sure the tubing
is inserted fully into the strainer and the flow is in the correct direction.
Tighten the nut firmly.
l. Install a 1/4” compression nut onto the tubing coming from the saddle
tapping valve and connect to the inlet stem of the strainer. Tighten
firmly.
m. Turn the handle counterclockwise to open the valve. Turn on the household water supply and check the connections for leaks. Tighten where
required.
Installing the Boiling Tank Drain Valve
1. Remove the blue plug from the fitting marked “Boiling Tank Drain” on the back of the unit.
Note: Ensure that Tefl on tape has been applied to the threads of the drain valve fitting.
2. Locate the drain valve from the parts kit bag and install it onto the boiling tank drain fitting. Tighten using an adjustable wrench. Note: Tighten until the
outlet is pointing down.
3. Insert the drain extension tube into the drain valve.
Note: Make sure the compression sleeve is on the
drain tube.
4. Holding the tube in place, tighten the nut with a 5/8” wrench until the tube is secure.
5. Loosen the nut slightly so the extension tube can be rotated, yet is secure.
Installing the Storage Tank Faucet
1. Locate the faucet and rubber washer in the parts kit bag. Install the rubber washer onto the faucet stem.
2. Remove the red plug in the fitting on the front of the Midi Classic.
3. Install the faucet into the fitting by rotating the faucet clockwise until tight, and the sight glass is in the proper vertical position. Note: Do not twist the faucet by the sight glass. It is fragile.
Connecting the Power Cord
Note: On some 240V units, the power cord may be sold separately and not included in the part kit bag.
Ensure the Power Switch is set to OFF.
1. Locate the power cord in the parts kit bag. Install the female end of the power cord into the outlet on the back of the unit marked “Power Cord Plug”.
Steam Sterilizing
Steam sterilization is a method of disinfecting your distiller and storage tank. It’s done by allowing the unit to operate without the fan, thus allowing steam to pass through the system and into the storage tank.
To steam sterilize your Midi-Classic:
1. Locate the 12” piece of silicone tubing from the parts kit bag. Place one end on the condensing coil tube and the other end on the tube to the storage tank.
2. Plug the distiller power cord into the power supply.
3. Open the storage tank faucet and lock it open. Place a bucket underneath to catch the condensation.
4. Turn the Fan Switch to “Sterilize”. This switch is located under the top plate.
5. Turn the Power Switch to ON.
6. Remove the boiling tank lid and make sure the boiling tank is filling with water. When the water stops, the heating element will come on.
7. Replace the boiling tank lid. Tighten securely.
8. With the heating element operating and the fan switch set to “Sterilize”, the unit is steam sterilizing. Allow the unit to steam-sterilize for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Note: We recommend you steam-sterilize the Midi-Classic every 4 months or after servicing.
9. Turn the Power Switch to OFF.
10. Allow the unit to cool for approximately 15 minutes. Close the storage tank
faucet.
11. Remove the silicone tubing used for steam sterilization.
Important Note: Keep this tubing for future use.
If you purchased a demand pump, install it now by following the instructions included with the pump kit.
Connecting the Post Filter
To hook up the Carbon Post Filter:
1. Locate the post filter and two elbows in the parts kit bag.
2. Remove the two yellow plugs at each end of the post filter by pushing on the
blue collets. Note: You may need needle-nose pliers to get the plugs out.
3. Insert an elbow into each end of the post filter. Insert fully.
4. Install the post filter onto the condensing coil and storage tank outlet tubes. Insert fully and pull to test. Note: The flow direction is from the coil to the storage tank.
The unit is now ready for operation. Turn the Power Switch to “On”, the Fan Switch to “Distill”, and the unit will operate automatically and fill the storage tank with distilled water. This will take approximately 18 hours. The unit will then monitor your water usage and restart as you draw water from the storage tank. Discard the first batch of distilled water.
Note: If you are installing a demand pump, test the connections before discarding the first batch.
Notice: The pump will not operate until the storage tank has sufficient water.
Note: Do NOT use the demand pump to discard the first batch of distilled water.
The storage tank will hold approximately 4.5 gallons of distilled water. You can remove approximately two gallons of water before the unit will restart.
Overall Maintenance Requirements
The following guide should be used for maintaining your distiller. The timing will vary according to your local water conditions. It is your responsibility to maintain your equipment. Without proper maintenance, your distiller may not produce optimum results.
The following is an average guide to maintenance:
Twice per month, or every 15 gallons: Drain the boiling tank.
Draining the Boiling Tank
The Midi-Classic has a manual drain valve that discards the contaminants and residue from the boiling tank when opened. This minimizes scale buildup in the boiling tank.
– Turn the Power Switch to OFF. Important Note: The drain valve handle may be hot if the unit has been running. – Turn the valve labeled “Boiling Tank Drain” on the back of the Midi-Classic and allow the residue to drain into a sink, drain, or bucket.
– Close the valve and turn the Power Switch to ON, and water will begin entering the boiling tank.
Every month or every 30 gallons* : Clean the boiling tank.
Cleaning the Boiling Tank
Caution: Under no circumstances should the cleaning solution be heated and run through a steam sterilization or distillation cycle.
Note: Failure to clean the boiling tank can result in:
a) Scale build-up causing premature heating element failure.
b) Reduced purity of the distilled water due to the possibility of splashing over of contaminants from the boiling tank.
To clean the boiling tank:
– Turn the Power Switch to OFF.
– Carefully feel the boiling tank lid and check the temperature. If it is hot, wait at least 30 minutes for the unit to cool.
– After the unit is cool, remove the boiling tank lid.
– Using a pitcher, add hot water from your tap until it reaches the scale line.
– Add Lumen™ by following the directions on the package.
– Replace the boiling tank lid and let the solution stand overnight.
– After the scale has softened, open the drain valve on the back of the unit. This will allow the boiling tank to drain. Close the valve.
– Rinse the boiling tank using a pitcher of tap water and again open the drain valve to allow it to drain. Repeat this procedure until the boiling tank is clear of Lumen.
– Turn the Power Switch to ON.
The unit is now ready for normal operation.
Every 4 months: Change the post filter.
Changing the Post Filter
– Turn the Power Switch to OFF.
– Have a bucket available to catch any excess water. Remove the post filter by releasing the fittings on each tube
outlet. Push in on the grey ring in the fitting while pulling the filter off with the other hand.
– Remove the elbows from each end of the post filter by pushing in on the blue collets.
– Reinstall the elbows onto each end of the new post filter. Insert fully and pull to test.
– Install the new post filter onto the condensing coil and storage tank outlet tubes. Insert fully.
Every 4 months: Steam sterilize.
Note: We recommend steam sterilizing the Midi-Classic every four months, whenever you change the post filter, or
If the unit has been serviced.
Steam Sterilizing
1.) Turn the Power Switch to OFF.
2.) Drain the storage tank by opening the faucet on the front of the Midi-Classic.
3.) Turn the Fan Switch to “Sterilize”.
4.) Disconnect the post filter by releasing the grey collets.
Note: If you have a demand pump, disconnect the inlet tubing and plug.
5.) Attach the silicone tubing to the condensing coil and storage tank inlet tube.
6.) Open the storage tank faucet and lock it open. Place a bucket underneath to catch condensation.
7.) Turn the Power Switch to ON and the Fan Switch to STERILIZE and allow the unit to steam sterilize for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
8.) After sterilization, turn the Power Switch to OFF, remove the silicone tubing, reinstall the post filter, close the storage tank faucet, and turn the Fan Switch to “Distill”.
Note: Reattach the inlet tubing of the demand pump, if needed.
9. Turn the Power Switch to ON and the Fan Switch to DISTILL, andthe unit is ready for normal operation.
Note: You will not be able to use the demand pump until the storage tank is approximately 1/4 full.
Every 4 months: Clean the exterior.
Cleaning the Exterior
Use Stainless Steel Polish & Cleaner (stock #6606). It is available from your Pure Water.
THE MACHINE WILL NOT OPERATE AT ALL
Note: The water level in the storage tank must be below 1/2 full before the distiller
will operate.
– Make sure the power cord is plugged into the wall outlet and inserted fully into the “Power Cord Plug” outlet.
– Make sure the outlet is working correctly.
– Make sure the power switch is ON.
Note: The power switch has a light to indicate that power is on to the unit. If the switch is ON and the power switch light is not illuminated, the ON/OFF switch may be defective and needs to be replaced. If the circuit breaker has been tripped, reset it by pressing the reset button up.
– If the power light is illuminated, check to see if the heater reset on the side of the unit has popped. If it has, press the reset button with the eraser end of a pencil.
– Make sure the incoming water supply is turned on and is flowing into the boiling tank.
– Check all wiring connections on the control relay. Ensure the relay is receiving voltage with a volt/ohm meter.
THE BOILING TANK WILL NOT FILL WITH WATER AUTOMATICALLY
Note: Make sure the saddle tapping valve or utility hook-up valve is turned ON to supply the feed water.
– Make sure the boiling tank fill switch is in the AUTOMATIC position.
– If the solenoid hums or clicks when you depress the momentary water switch, but no water enters the boiling tank, then you have either a clogged solenoid valve, a clogged saddle tapping valve, or a clogged pre-filter or strainer.
– If the solenoid does not make any noise when the momentary water switch is
depressed, then you have a bad momentary water switch (check with a volt-ohm meter) or a defective solenoid.
– If the float ball inside the boiling tank is resting against the heat tab and is fully depressing the inside microswitch, you probably need to replace the microswitch.
Check with a volt/ohm meter. If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you may need to replace the relay.
Another indication of a bad relay is that the heater reset will likely pop.
– If the float inside the boiling tank is not moving freely, install a new float repair kit with a bushing and an o-ring.
– IMPORTANT: Only authorized Dealers and Distributors of Pure Water may access the electrical panel to change the FUNCTION switch from “Automatic” to “Manual” mode.
THE FAN WILL NOT OPERATE WITHOUT EXCESSIVE NOISE
– Make sure the fan switch is in the “Distill” position. If so, you may have a defective switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– You may have a defective fan motor. If the fan is mounted correctly, the blade is not loose on the motor shaft, and it spins freely by hand without hitting anything. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
The boiling tank reaches normal operating level, but the heating element will not heat the water or bring it to a boil.
– If the heater reset is not popped or the fan is running and the boiling tank is full of water, you may have a defective heating element.
– If water continues to fill the boiling tank after draining the tank, and the fan isn’t
operating either, then you may have a defective outside boiling tank microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– Make sure the float is operating correctly and not stuck at the bottom of the tank.
– Check all wiring connections on the control relay. Inspect the relay for any burnt or damaged wires. Check the relay with a volt/ohm meter.
THE BOILING TANK OVERFLOWS WITH WATER
Note: If your machine is new, make sure you have removed the wire tie inside the boiling tank that restrains the float during transit.
– If the float actuating arm is depressing the inside microswitch and the float rod is
moving freely and floats accordingly with the water level, you may have a defective microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the relay. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch and relay check out ok, then you may have a defective solenoid. Turn the power switch to “OFF”.
If water continues to flow into the boilingtank, then you need to replace the solenoid.
– If the microswitch and relay are ok and the solenoid is not defective, you may have a defective momentary water switch. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the float ball is heavy and has scale build-up, clean the boiling tank and, if necessary, replace the float.
– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.
THE MACHINE DOES NOT SHUT OFF WHEN THE UNIT IS FULL OF WATER
– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the storage tank’s high-level microswitch is fully depressed, then you may have a defective microswitch. Depress both the boiling tank and storage tank high-level microswitches. If the unit does not shut down, remove one wire from the boiling tank microswitch. If the unit shuts down, replace the boiling tank microswitch. If the machine shuts down, leave the wire off and remove one wire from the high-level microswitch on the storage tank. If the unit shuts down, replace the storage tank microswitch.
– If the unit does not shut down when removing the wires from testing the boiling tank and storage tank microswitch wires, then you need to replace the main control relay.
– If the storage tank float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.
THE UNIT BOILS WATER, BUT THE FAN IS NOT WORKING
– Make sure the fan switch is set to “Distill”.
– The fan switch may be defective. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– The fan motor may be defective. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
THE UNIT RUNS A SHORT TIME AND THE HEATER POPS
Note: If the reset is popped, use the eraser end of a pencil to reset it.
– If the boiling tank water level is below the heating element, the float may be sticking, and you may need to adjust the float or install a new bushing and o-ring or float repair kit.
– If the unit starts up after it is cooled, you may have a faulty reset.
– Check the outside microswitch with a volt/ohm meter for fluctuations in the switch.
THE UNIT RUNS FOR A SHORT TIME, AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPS
Note: If the circuit breaker is popped, press the reset button up.
– If overload pops out again, disconnect the power and check the electrical wiring inside the unit for a shorted wire or component.
– If wiring and components appear ok, replace the defective circuit breaker.
– Check the power cord for damage.
THE OPTIONAL DEMAND PUMP DOES NOT WORK CORRECTLY OR AT ALL
Note: The storage tank must be at least 1/3 full for the pump to operate.
– If the unit is plugged in and the power switch is “On”, you may have a blown fuse, defective pressure switch, or defective pump. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the pump cycles on and off, but no water is delivered, or it will not shut off after you close the faucet or cycle on and off when not in use, you may have leaks in your water line; a defective pressure switch; a clogged pump valve, loose fittings and connections, or a defective pump.
– If the pump does not deliver water to the faucet at a steady pressure, you may have a defective pump.
– If the pump does not operate when there is sufficient water in the storage tank, but operates when plugged into the wall outlet, you may have a problem with the storage tank float, defective pump protection fuse, or defective demand pump plug. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the pump will not shut off, you could have air in the line, a clogged pump valve, a defective pressure switch, or a defective pump.
Midi Classic
Mega Classic
Set Up for mega
First cycle
What are they, when to change them, link to video
THE MACHINE WILL NOT OPERATE AT ALL
Note: The water level in the storage tank must be below 3/4 full before the distiller
will operate.
– Make sure the power cord is plugged into the wall outlet and inserted fully into the “Power Cord Plug” outlet.
– Make sure the outlet is working correctly.
– Make sure the power switch is ON.
– If the power light is illuminated, check to see if the heater reset on the side of the unit has popped. If it has, press the reset button with the eraser end of a pencil.
– Make sure the incoming water supply is turned on and is flowing into the boiling tank.
THE BOILING TANK WILL NOT FILL WITH WATER AUTOMATICALLY
Note: Make sure the saddle tapping valve or utility hook-up valve is turned ON to supply the feed water.
– If the float ball inside the boiling tank is resting against the support arm and is fully depressing the low-level microswitch, you probably need to replace the microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the heating element relay. Another indication of a bad heating element relay is that the reset will pop.
– If the solenoid is making a buzzing noise, your feed water supply line may be clogged, or you may have a defective solenoid valve. Check it with a volt/ohm meter.
THE FAN WILL NOT OPERATE WITHOUT EXCESSIVE NOISE
– Make sure the fan switch is in the “Distill” position. If so, you may have a defective switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the fan is mounted correctly, the blade is not loose on the motor shaft, and it spins freely by hand without hitting anything. Check with a volt/ohm meter. You may have a defective fan motor.
The boiling tank reaches normal operating level, but the heating element will not heat the water or bring it to a boil.
– If the function switch is in the “Distill” position and the heating element is not operating either, you may have a defective function switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– Check for excessive water in the drip tray. Drain if necessary.
THE DISTILLER FILLS TO A NORMAL OPERATING LEVEL, BUT THE HEATING ELEMENT WILL NOT HEAT OR BRING WATER TO A BOIL
– If the reset is not popped or the fan is running and the boiling tank is full of water, you may have a defective heating element. Replace the heating element.
– If water continues to fill the boiling tank after draining the tank, and the fan isn’t operating, then you may have a defective high-level boiling tank microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the function switch is in the “Distill” position, the fan is not operating; you may have a defective function switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
THE BOILING TANK OVERFLOWS WITH WATER
Note: If your machine is new, make sure you have removed the wire tie inside the boiling tank that restrains the float during transit.
– If the float actuating arm is depressing the inside microswitch and the float rod is
moving freely and floats accordingly with the water level, you may have a defective microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the heating element. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch and heating element check out ok, then you may have a defective solenoid. Turn the power switch to “OFF”.
If water continues to flow into the boilingtank, then you need to replace the solenoid.
– If the microswitch and heating element are ok and the solenoid is not defective, you may have a defective momentary water switch. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the float ball is heavy and has scale build-up, clean the boiling tank and, if necessary, replace the float.
– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.
THE BOILING TANK AUTOMATIC DRAIN VALVE DOES NOT OPEN OR SHUT
– If water continues to drain during operation of the distiller, you may have a defective drain valve. A heavy scale may be preventing the drain valve from closing completely. Clean the boiling tank or replace the drain valve.
– If there is no water coming from the drain valve or it is draining slowly, you may have scale build-up in the drain valve or a defective drain valve. Clean or replace the drain valve.
THE MACHINE DOES NOT SHUT OFF WHEN IT IS FULL OF WATER
– If the storage tank’s high-level microswitch is fully depressed, then you may have a defective microswitch. Depress both the boiling tank and storage tank high-level microswitches. If the unit does not shut down, remove one wire from the boiling tank microswitch. If the unit shuts down, replace the boiling tank microswitch. If the machine shuts down, leave the wire off and remove one wire from the high-level microswitch on the storage tank. If the unit shuts down, replace the storage tank microswitch.
– If the unit does not shut down when removing the wires from testing the boiling tank and storage tank microswitch wires, then you need to replace the main control relay.
THE DEMAND PUMP DOES NOT WORK CORRECTLY OR AT ALL
Note: The storage tank must be at least 1/4 full for the pump to operate.
– If the unit is plugged in and the power switch is “On”, you may have a blown fuse, defective pressure switch, or defective pump. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the pump cycles on and off, but no water is delivered, or it will not shut off after you close the faucet or cycle on and off when not in use, you may have leaks in your water line; a defective pressure switch; a clogged pump valve, loose fittings and connections, or a defective pump.
– If the pump does not deliver water to the faucet at a steady pressure, you may have a defective pump.
