Support & Troubleshooting

Insufficient Ventilation of the Unit
– Check that the unit is not pushed up against the wall. Keep a minimum of 3 inches of clearance.
– Check if there are any items on the unit that may block airflow. Remove any such items.
– Check if the fan is not turning, and you have checked that there is power to the unit, and the timer switch is on, then it may be a failed fan motor.
– Check the condensing coil for buildup of debris.

Fan Motor
– Check if the fan is not turning, and you have checked that there is power to the unit and the timer switch is on, then it may be a failed fan motor. Replace the fan motor (Part #667B). View our how-to video on replacing the fan HERE.

Improper Positioning
– Check that the boiling tank lid is aligned with the boiling tank correctly.
– Check that the carbon filter is in the proper position and water is flowing through it.
– Check that the glass jar is correctly placed to catch the water.
– Check that the heating element and gasket are tight.
– Check that the O-Ring is not cracked, and that it is sealed properly. View our how-to video on replacing the O-ring in the Mini Classic CT HERE.

Note: Make sure the saddle tapping valve or utility hook-up valve is turned ON to supply the feed water.

– Make sure the boiling tank fill switch is in the AUTOMATIC position.
– If the solenoid hums or clicks when you depress the momentary water switch, but no water enters the boiling tank, then you have either a clogged solenoid valve, a clogged saddle tapping valve, or a clogged pre-filter or strainer.
– If the solenoid does not make any noise when the momentary water switch is
depressed, then you have a bad momentary water switch (check with a volt-ohm meter) or a defective solenoid.
– If the float ball inside the boiling tank is resting against the heat tab and is fully depressing the inside microswitch, you probably need to replace the microswitch.
Check with a volt/ohm meter. If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you may need to replace the relay.
Another indication of a bad relay is that the heater reset will likely pop.
– If the float inside the boiling tank is not moving freely, install a new float repair kit with a bushing and an o-ring.
IMPORTANT: Only authorized Dealers and Distributors of Pure Water may access the electrical panel to change the FUNCTION switch from “Automatic” to “Manual” mode.

– Make sure the fan switch is in the “Distill” position. If so, you may have a defective switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– You may have a defective fan motor. If the fan is mounted correctly, the blade is not loose on the motor shaft, and it spins freely by hand without hitting anything. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
The boiling tank reaches normal operating level, but the heating element will not heat the water or bring it to a boil.
– If the heater reset is not popped or the fan is running and the boiling tank is full of water, you may have a defective heating element.
– If water continues to fill the boiling tank after draining the tank, and the fan isn’t
operating either, then you may have a defective outside boiling tank microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– Make sure the float is operating correctly and not stuck at the bottom of the tank.
– Check all wiring connections on the control relay. Inspect the relay for any burnt or damaged wires. Check the relay with a volt/ohm meter.

Note: If your machine is new, make sure you have removed the wire tie inside the boiling tank that restrains the float during transit.

– If the float actuating arm is depressing the inside microswitch and the float rod is
moving freely and floats accordingly with the water level, you may have a defective microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the relay. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch and relay check out ok, then you may have a defective solenoid. Turn the power switch to “OFF”.
If water continues to flow into the boiling tank, then you need to replace the solenoid.
– If the microswitch and relay are ok and the solenoid is not defective, you may have a defective momentary water switch. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the float ball is heavy and has scale build-up, clean the boiling tank and, if necessary, replace the float.
– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.

– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the storage tank’s high-level microswitch is fully depressed, then you may have a defective microswitch. Depress both the boiling tank and storage tank high-level microswitches. If the unit does not shut down, remove one wire from the boiling tank microswitch. If the unit shuts down, replace the boiling tank microswitch. If the machine shuts down, leave the wire off and remove one wire from the high-level microswitch on the storage tank. If the unit shuts down, replace the storage tank microswitch.
– If the unit does not shut down when removing the wires from testing the boiling tank and storage tank microswitch wires, then you need to replace the main control relay.
– If the storage tank float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.

– Make sure the fan switch is set to “Distill”.
– The fan switch may be defective. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– The fan motor may be defective. Check with a volt-ohm meter.

Note: If the reset is popped, use the eraser end of a pencil to reset it.

– If the boiling tank water level is below the heating element, the float may be sticking, and you may need to adjust the float or install a new bushing and o-ring or float repair kit.
– If the unit starts up after it is cooled, you may have a faulty reset.
– Check the outside microswitch with a volt/ohm meter for fluctuations in the switch.

Note: If the circuit breaker is popped, press the reset button up.

– If overload pops out again, disconnect the power and check the electrical wiring inside the unit for a shorted wire or component.
– If wiring and components appear ok, replace the defective circuit breaker.
– Check the power cord for damage.

Note: The storage tank must be at least 1/3 full for the pump to operate.

– If the unit is plugged in and the power switch is “On”, you may have a blown fuse, defective pressure switch, or defective pump. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the pump cycles on and off, but no water is delivered, or it will not shut off after you close the faucet or cycle on and off when not in use, you may have leaks in your water line; a defective pressure switch; a clogged pump valve, loose fittings and connections, or a defective pump.
– If the pump does not deliver water to the faucet at a steady pressure, you may have a defective pump.
– If the pump does not operate when there is sufficient water in the storage tank, but operates when plugged into the wall outlet, you may have a problem with the storage tank float, defective pump protection fuse, or defective demand pump plug. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the pump will not shut off, you could have air in the line, a clogged pump valve, a defective pressure switch, or a defective pump.

Note: Make sure the saddle tapping valve or utility hook-up valve is turned ON to supply the feed water.

– If the float ball inside the boiling tank is resting against the support arm and is fully depressing the low-level microswitch, you probably need to replace the microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
-If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the heating element relay. Another indication of a bad heating element relay is that the reset will pop.
– If the solenoid is making a buzzing noise, your feed water supply line may be clogged, or you may have a defective solenoid valve. Check it with a volt/ohm meter.

– Make sure the fan switch is in the “Distill” position. If so, you may have a defective switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the fan is mounted correctly, the blade is not loose on the motor shaft, and it spins freely by hand without hitting anything. Check with a volt/ohm meter. You may have a defective fan motor.

– If the reset is not popped or the fan is running and the boiling tank is full of water, you may have a defective heating element. Replace the heating element.
– If water continues to fill the boiling tank after draining the tank, and the fan isn’t operating, then you may have a defective high-level boiling tank microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the function switch is in the “Distill” position, the fan is not operating; you may have a defective function switch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.

Note: If your machine is new, make sure you have removed the wire tie inside the boiling tank that restrains the float during transit.

– If the float actuating arm is depressing the inside microswitch and the float rod is
moving freely and floats accordingly with the water level, you may have a defective microswitch. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch checks out ok, and the heating element and fan come on, then you need to replace the heating element. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the microswitch and heating element check out ok, then you may have a defective solenoid. Turn the power switch to “OFF”.
If water continues to flow into the boiling tank, then you need to replace the solenoid.
– If the microswitch and heating element are ok and the solenoid is not defective, you may have a defective momentary water switch. Check with a volt-ohm meter.
– If the float ball is heavy and has scale build-up, clean the boiling tank and, if necessary, replace the float.
– If the float is not moving freely, you may need to install a new bushing and o-ring or a float repair kit.
– If the float ball is full of water, replace the float ball.

– If water continues to drain during operation of the distiller, you may have a defective drain valve. A heavy scale may be preventing the drain valve from closing completely. Clean the boiling tank or replace the drain valve.
– If there is no water coming from the drain valve or it is draining slowly, you may have scale build-up in the drain valve or a defective drain valve. Clean or replace the drain valve.

– If the storage tank’s high-level microswitch is fully depressed, then you may have a defective microswitch. Depress both the boiling tank and storage tank high-level microswitches. If the unit does not shut down, remove one wire from the boiling tank microswitch. If the unit shuts down, replace the boiling tank microswitch. If the machine shuts down, leave the wire off and remove one wire from the high-level microswitch on the storage tank. If the unit shuts down, replace the storage tank microswitch.
– If the unit does not shut down when removing the wires from testing the boiling tank and storage tank microswitch wires, then you need to replace the main control relay.

Note: The storage tank must be at least 1/4 full for the pump to operate.

– If the unit is plugged in and the power switch is “On”, you may have a blown fuse, defective pressure switch, or defective pump. Check with a volt/ohm meter.
– If the pump cycles on and off, but no water is delivered, or it will not shut off after you close the faucet or cycle on and off when not in use, you may have leaks in your water line; a defective pressure switch; a clogged pump valve, loose fittings and connections, or a defective pump.
– If the pump does not deliver water to the faucet at a steady pressure, you may have a defective pump.